Question 1

Is Polysorbate 20 safe?

Accepted Answer

Yes. It is one of the better-studied cosmetic ingredients: the independent Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel assessed the polysorbates and found them safe as used, and it is also cleared as a food additive (E432). At the low levels used in sunscreen it is non-irritating for most people. The one caveat experts raise is not the molecule itself but trace 1,4-dioxane, a by-product of the ethoxylation step that reputable manufacturers purify out. It is a contaminant, not the ingredient.

Question 2

Does Polysorbate 20 clog pores?

Accepted Answer

Generally no. It is considered non-comedogenic, scoring around 0 to 1 on the comedogenicity scale. It is a lightweight surfactant rather than a heavy oil or wax, and it is used in tiny amounts, so it is an unlikely pore-clogging culprit. If you are breaking out, the richer emollients and oils elsewhere in a formula are far more likely the cause.

Question 3

What is Polysorbate 20 on an ingredient list (INCI)?

Accepted Answer

"Polysorbate 20" is the INCI name printed on the label. Chemically it is polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate, where the "20" means about 20 units of ethylene oxide, not a percentage. You may also see it called Tween 20. It usually appears low on the list, near the fragrance or oils it is there to dissolve.

Question 4

Is Polysorbate 20 a preservative?

Accepted Answer

No. Polysorbate 20 is an emulsifier and solubilizer, not a preservative. It is easy to confuse because it often sits right next to the preservatives on an ingredient list, but it does nothing to stop microbes growing. The preserving in a sunscreen is done by ingredients like phenoxyethanol, the glycols, or ethylhexylglycerin; Polysorbate 20 is only there to dissolve oils and fragrance into the water phase.

Question 5

Is Polysorbate 20 natural?

Accepted Answer

It is synthetic, though built from fairly natural building blocks: sorbitol (a sugar alcohol) and lauric acid (from coconut or palm), joined and ethoxylated in a lab. The finished emulsifier does not occur in nature, and that is fine for what it does.

Question 6

Is Polysorbate 20 safe to use during pregnancy?

Accepted Answer

Polysorbate 20 has no known pregnancy concern. It is a mild emulsifier used in tiny amounts, cleared as a food additive (E432), and is well tolerated.

Polysorbate 20

What Polysorbate 20 is & what it does