Steareth-20
What Steareth-20 is & what it does
A nonionic emulsifier made by attaching about 20 units of ethylene oxide to stearyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It blends the oil and water phases of a cream into one stable, smooth mixture and is often paired with steareth-2 to fine-tune the texture. It works on the surface of the formula, keeping oil and water evenly mixed rather than acting on the skin itself.
What is Steareth-20 and what does it do in sunscreen?
Steareth-20 is a nonionic emulsifier. It blends the oil and water phases of a sunscreen into one stable, smooth lotion and stops them separating. It is made by attaching about 20 units of ethylene oxide to stearyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol, and is frequently paired with the more oil-loving steareth-2 to balance the emulsion. The 20 refers to the units of ethylene oxide, not a percentage.
Is Steareth-20 safe?
Yes. It is a widely used, well-tolerated emulsifier reviewed as safe in cosmetics. Like other ethoxylated ingredients it can carry trace 1,4-dioxane from manufacturing, which reputable makers purify out. That is a contaminant, not the ingredient itself, and at the small levels used in sunscreen it is non-irritating for most people.
Does Steareth-20 clog pores?
Generally no. It is treated as low on the comedogenicity scale and is not one of the classic pore-clogging ingredients. It is an emulsifier used in small amounts rather than a heavy oil or wax. If a product is breaking you out, the richer emollients and oils elsewhere in the formula are far more likely the cause.
Is Steareth-20 fungal-acne safe?
For most people it is fine, but if you are fungal-acne prone you may prefer to avoid it. Steareth-20 is built on a fatty (stearyl) part that the malassezia yeast behind fungal acne can potentially use, which is why it appears on feeder lists. This is one specific skin concern, not a general safety issue, so it only matters if fungal acne is something you personally deal with.
Is Steareth-20 natural?
No, it is synthetic. It starts from stearyl alcohol, which is often plant-derived, but it is then ethoxylated in the lab, a man-made step. The finished emulsifier does not occur in nature, and that is fine for the job it does.
Sunscreens with Steareth-20
We rate 122 sunscreens that contain it, showing the top 10 by overall score:
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Solante Acnes Tinted SPF 50+ Sunscreen Lotion
94/100
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Pharmaceris Capilar & Sun Protect Spf 50+
94/100
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Pharmaceris S Capilar Protect Protection Cream SPF 50+ PPD 30
94/100
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Pharmaceris Hydro-lipid (SPF 50+) Body Lotion
94/100
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Dermacol CC Sun Shield SPF 50
93/100
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Joylab Aqua Sun-day SPF 50+ Pa++++
92/100
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Bioderma Photoderm Aquafluide SPF 50+ Tinted Sunscreen
91/100
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Gerovital Crema Nuantatoare SPF 50
91/100
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Solante Atopica SPF 50+ Losyon
91/100
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Gerovital H3 Derma+ Sun Expert Spf 50 Natural Teinted
91/100