Academie Derm Acte SPF 50 Protective Cream
75/100 overall score
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About this sunscreen
Academie Derm Acte SPF 50 Protective Cream is a hybrid sunscreen that combines Titanium Dioxide with the modern filter Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol and the older Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate. It delivers a matte finish with low white cast and a lightweight feel, plus low pore-clogging potential, so it suits oilier and combination skin. It does not sting and works okay under makeup. With good protection and a score of 75.3/100, it is a capable everyday face cream for those wanting a shine-free result.
Ingredient & SPF scores
☀️
UV protection
Good
79
- +33 Titanium Dioxide at #3, UV filter (UVA1 +5)
- +45.6 Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol at #5, UV filter (UVA1 +17.1)
- +17.1 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate at #6, UV filter
- −16.3 UVB coverage saturated
- −2.3 UVA2 coverage saturated
- +2 Label claims (SPF 50)
☢️
Health safety
High
64
- +100 Starting score
- −36 Octinoxate at #6 (regulatory/evidence concern)
🤧
Allergens
Low
70
- +100 Starting score
- −18 Fragrance
- −12 Opaque "Fragrance", hidden allergens that can't be checked from the label
👻
White cast
Low
66
- +100 Starting score
- −25 Titanium Dioxide at #3 (nano)
- −12 Tinosorb M at #5, may look bluish-grey on deeper skin tones
- +2.6 Coated minerals (Aluminum Hydroxide)
🔥
Eye sting
Low
80
- +100 Starting score
- −11 Octinoxate at #6, migrates into eyes with sweat
- −1 Volatile alcohol at #31
- −8 Fragrance
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Heavy feel
Low
75
- +100 Starting score
- −30 Titanium Dioxide at #3
- +4.5 Volatile hydrocarbon at #4, flashes off
🍄
Fungal acne
Low
77
- +100 Starting score
- −18 2 long-chain (C12+) esters that feed Malassezia (PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate)
- −5 1 ubiquitous fatty ingredients (Stearic Acid), weak Malassezia signal
- +0 Dimethicone at #1, a safe base that does not feed Malassezia
👕
Fabric stains
Low
85
- +100 Starting score
- −15 Titanium Dioxide at #3, white marks, worst on dark fabric (washable)
💧
Moisture
Light
LightNourishing
- ← 2 Volatile alcohol at #31
- ← 3 1 sebum-absorbing powders (Nylon-12)
- ← 4 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
- ← 2 Titanium Dioxide at #3, mild sebum absorbent
- → 1 Glycerin at #15, the anchor humectant
✨
Finish
Matte
MatteDewy
- ← 3 1 sebum-absorbing powders (Nylon-12)
- ← 4 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
- ← 0.5 Volatile alcohol at #31
💄
Makeup base
Okay
PillsPrimer
- → 4 Primer-style base, volatile silicones and dimethicone slip
- → 3 Quick-setting carrier (alcohol at #31), fast, even canvas
- ← 7.5 High mineral load at #3 greys under foundation (nano)
🌊
Water resistance
Not resistant
Non-water-resistantWater-resistant
Nothing flagged in the ingredient list.
How we rate water resistance →Full ingredient list (33)
What each ingredient does and how it moves each rating: green helps, red hurts, ↑ / ↓ give the direction, and ← / → shift a slider toward its ends (finish, moisture, makeup base). Auto-derived from our scoring rules and the ingredient's position.
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Emollient, softens and smooths skin
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2 Water
Solvent base, the water phase
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Mineral UV filter (Titanium Dioxide), high in the list, a primary filter
- ↑ 33 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
- ↑ 15 white marks, worst on dark fabric (washable)
- light ← 2 mild sebum absorbent
- pills ← 7.5 High mineral load greys under foundation (nano)
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Volatile hydrocarbon, flashes off for a light finish
- light ← 4 volatile carrier, flashes off
- matte ← 4 volatile carrier, flashes off
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Modern UV filter, broad-spectrum and photostable (Tinosorb M)
- ↑ 45.6 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
- ↑ 12 may look bluish-grey on deeper skin tones
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Legacy UV filter (Octinoxate)
- ↑ 17.1 UV protection
- ↑ 11 migrates into eyes with sweat
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
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9 Nylon-12
Mattifying powder, absorbs oil and blurs the finish
- light ← 3 sebum-absorbing powder
- matte ← 3 sebum-absorbing powder
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10 Stearic Acid
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- ↑ 5 minor malassezia feeder
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Supporting ingredient
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
-
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
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15 Glycerin
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 1 → nourishing the anchor humectant
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Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
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Botanical extract
-
Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
-
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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22 Xanthan Gum
Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
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Botanical extract
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Chelator, binds stray metal ions to keep the formula stable
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Botanical extract
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Botanical extract
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27 Citric Acid
pH adjuster
-
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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Botanical extract
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30 BHT
Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin
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31 Alcohol
Volatile alcohol, a drying solvent that can sting eyes
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32 Tocopherol
Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin
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33 Fragrance
Fragrance
Is this good for oily skin?
Yes. It has a matte finish and low pore-clogging potential, which generally suits oilier and combination skin. It also feels lightweight rather than heavy.
Is the Academie Derm Acte SPF 50 Protective Cream mineral or chemical?
It is a hybrid. It combines Titanium Dioxide with the modern filter Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol and the older Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate.
Is the Academie Derm Acte SPF 50 Protective Cream any good?
It scores 75.3/100 with good protection at SPF 50. The matte, low-cast finish makes it a capable everyday face cream.