Cantabria Labs Heliocare Advanced Gel Spf 50
70/100 overall score
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About this sunscreen
Cantabria Labs Heliocare Advanced Gel Spf 50 is a sunscreen that combines older chemical filters Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and Octocrylene with mineral Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide. The gel has a balanced, lightweight finish with low white cast, though it may sting somewhat for sensitive eyes. It sits okay under makeup and is low risk for clogging pores. With a score of 70.1/100 and good protection, it is a reasonable everyday gel.
Ingredient & SPF scores
☀️
UV protection
Good
77
- +18 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate at #2, UV filter
- +16 Octocrylene at #3, UV filter
- +38.9 Zinc Oxide at #7, UV filter (UVA1 +17.1)
- +19.8 Titanium Dioxide at #15, UV filter (UVA1 +3)
- −18.1 UVB coverage saturated
- +2 Label claims (SPF 50)
☢️
Health safety
Medium
54
- +100 Starting score
- −36 Octinoxate at #2 (regulatory/evidence concern)
- −10.5 Octocrylene at #3, stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
🤧
Allergens
Low
67
- +100 Starting score
- −18 Fragrance
- −2 2 declared fragrance allergens
- −10 Opaque "Fragrance", hidden allergens that can't be checked from the label
- −3 Photoallergen-tail UV filters (Octocrylene)
👻
White cast
Low
76
- +100 Starting score
- −15 Zinc Oxide at #7 (nano)
- −3 Titanium Dioxide at #15 (nano)
- −10 Zinc Oxide + Titanium Dioxide together
- +4.2 Coated minerals (Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Alumina)
🔥
Eye sting
Medium
50
- +100 Starting score
- −22 Octocrylene at #3, migrates into eyes with sweat
- −16 Octinoxate at #2, migrates into eyes with sweat
- −8 Fragrance
- −4 2 declared fragrance allergens
🪨
Heavy feel
Low
76
- +100 Starting score
- −22 Zinc Oxide at #7
- −2 Titanium Dioxide at #15
🍄
Fungal acne
Low
82
- +100 Starting score
- −9 1 oils/butters that feed Malassezia (Lecithin)
- −9 1 long-chain (C12+) esters that feed Malassezia (Laureth-7)
👕
Fabric stains
Low
70
- +100 Starting score
- −15 Octocrylene at #3, co-stains alongside avobenzone
- −10 Zinc Oxide at #7, white marks, worst on dark fabric (washable)
- −5 Both minerals present, heavier deposit
💧
Moisture
Balanced
LightNourishing
- ← 5 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
- ← 2 Zinc Oxide at #7, mild sebum absorbent
- → 10 Glycerin at #5, the anchor humectant
✨
Finish
Balanced
MatteDewy
- ← 5 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
💄
Makeup base
Okay
PillsPrimer
- → 2 Primer-style base, volatile silicones and dimethicone slip
- ← 4 Gel polymers prone to pilling under friction (Polyacrylamide)
- ← 3 Humectant syrup tackiness
- ← 3 High mineral load at #7 greys under foundation (nano)
🌊
Water resistance
Not resistant
Non-water-resistantWater-resistant
- +7 1 film-forming polymers that lock the formula on for water resistance
Full ingredient list (31)
What each ingredient does and how it moves each rating: green helps, red hurts, ↑ / ↓ give the direction, and ← / → shift a slider toward its ends (finish, moisture, makeup base). Auto-derived from our scoring rules and the ingredient's position.
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1 Water
Solvent base, the water phase
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Legacy UV filter (Octinoxate), high in the list, a primary filter
- ↑ 18 UV protection
- ↑ 16 migrates into eyes with sweat
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Legacy UV filter (Octocrylene), high in the list, a primary filter
- ↑ 16 UV protection
- ↓ 10.5 stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
- ↑ 22 migrates into eyes with sweat
- ↑ 15 co-stains alongside avobenzone
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Emollient, softens and smooths skin
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5 Glycerin
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 10 → nourishing the anchor humectant
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
-
Mineral UV filter (Zinc Oxide)
- ↑ 38.9 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
- ↑ 10 white marks, worst on dark fabric (washable)
- light ← 2 mild sebum absorbent
- pills ← 3 High mineral load greys under foundation (nano)
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Volatile silicone, flashes off for a light finish
- light ← 2 volatile carrier, flashes off
- matte ← 2 volatile carrier, flashes off
-
Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
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Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
- ↑ 7 film former
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Volatile silicone, flashes off for a light finish
- light ← 2 volatile carrier, flashes off
- matte ← 2 volatile carrier, flashes off
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Botanical extract
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- light ← 1 volatile carrier, flashes off
- matte ← 1 volatile carrier, flashes off
-
Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
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Mineral UV filter (Titanium Dioxide), low in the list, likely a minor contributor
- ↑ 19.8 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
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16 Laureth-7
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
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Botanical extract
-
Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin
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Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
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Botanical extract
-
Chelator, binds stray metal ions to keep the formula stable
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23 Alumina
Supporting ingredient
-
24 BHT
Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin
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25 Simethicone
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
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Supporting ingredient
-
27 Fragrance
Fragrance
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28 Lecithin
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
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29 Lactic Acid
pH adjuster
-
30 Linalool
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
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31 Limonene
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
Is Heliocare Advanced Gel mineral or chemical?
It is a mix. It combines older chemical filters Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and Octocrylene with mineral Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide.
Does the Cantabria Labs Heliocare Advanced Gel Spf 50 leave a white cast?
White cast is rated low. The lightweight gel generally blends in clear despite the mineral component.
Does the Cantabria Labs Heliocare Advanced Gel Spf 50 sting the eyes?
Stinging risk is rated medium, so it may bother sensitive eyes somewhat. Careful application around the eye area is sensible.