Dermalogica Clearing Defense SPF 30
67/100 overall score
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About this sunscreen
Dermalogica Clearing Defense SPF 30 is a chemical sunscreen using older-style filters Homosalate, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Salicylate and Avobenzone. It has a balanced finish, sits lightweight on skin and leaves little to no white cast, which suits everyday face wear. The filter set is on the dated side and may sting if it migrates into the eyes. Protection is good and the score is 67.3 out of 100, a reasonable daily SPF 30 for those who like a low-cast, comfortable feel.
Ingredient & SPF scores
βοΈ
UV protection
Good
59
- +12 Homosalate at #2, UV filter
- +16 Octocrylene at #3, UV filter
- +7.6 Ethylhexyl Salicylate at #4, UV filter
- +28.5 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane at #7, UV filter (UVA1 +15.2)
- Γ0.9 Limited long-UVA1 coverage
- +1 Label claims (SPF 30)
β’οΈ
Health safety
Medium
46
- +100 Starting score
- β40 Homosalate at #2 (regulatory/evidence concern)
- β10.5 Octocrylene at #3, stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
- β3.5 Avobenzone at #7, stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
π€§
Allergens
Low
87
- +100 Starting score
- β8 4 declared fragrance allergens
- β2 Essential oils (Citrus Sinensis Oil)
- β3 Photoallergen-tail UV filters (Octocrylene)
π₯
Eye sting
Medium
39
- +100 Starting score
- β16 Avobenzone at #7, migrates into eyes with sweat
- β22 Octocrylene at #3, migrates into eyes with sweat
- β9 Homosalate at #2, migrates into eyes with sweat
- β6 Octisalate at #4, migrates into eyes with sweat
- β8 4 declared fragrance allergens
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Fungal acne
Medium
68
- +100 Starting score
- β32 3 long-chain (C12+) esters that feed Malassezia (Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate)
π
Fabric stains
High
30
- +100 Starting score
- β45 Avobenzone at #7, reacts with iron in wash water into rust-yellow stains
- β15 Octocrylene at #3, co-stains alongside avobenzone
- β10 Avobenzone + Octocrylene, the classic staining pair
π§
Moisture
Balanced
LightNourishing
- β 6.5 2 sebum-absorbing powders (Silica, Tapioca Starch)
- β 1 Glycerin at #36, the anchor humectant
- β 2 1 strong humectants (Saccharide Isomerate)
- β 1 Humectant polyols
β¨
Finish
Balanced
MatteDewy
- β 7 2 sebum-absorbing powders (Silica, Tapioca Starch)
- β 3 1 emollient lipids (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate)
π
Makeup base
Okay
PillsPrimer
- β 3 1 soft-focus powders in moderation
- β 1 Dry-touch esters, smooth fast-absorbing base
- β 0.5 Gel polymers prone to pilling under friction (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer)
π
Water resistance
Not resistant
Non-water-resistantWater-resistant
- +7 1 film-forming polymers that lock the formula on for water resistance
Skincare extras
Beneficial actives this formula contains. Informational only, not part of the rating: their effect depends on a concentration the label does not disclose.
- β¨ Green tea
- β¨ Vitamin C
Full ingredient list (46)
What each ingredient does and how it moves each rating: green helps, red hurts, β / β give the direction, and β / β shift a slider toward its ends (finish, moisture, makeup base). Auto-derived from our scoring rules and the ingredient's position.
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1 Water
Solvent base, the water phase
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Legacy UV filter (Homosalate), high in the list, a primary filter
- β 12 UV protection
- β 9 migrates into eyes with sweat
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Legacy UV filter (Octocrylene), high in the list, a primary filter
- β 16 UV protection
- β 10.5 stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
- β 22 migrates into eyes with sweat
- β 15 co-stains alongside avobenzone
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Legacy UV filter (Octisalate)
- β 7.6 UV protection
- β 6 migrates into eyes with sweat
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 1 β nourishing humectant polyol
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6 Silica
Mattifying powder, absorbs oil and blurs the finish
- light β 5 sebum-absorbing powder
- matte β 6 sebum-absorbing powder
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Legacy UV filter (Avobenzone)
- β 28.5 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
- β 3.5 stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
- β 16 migrates into eyes with sweat
- β 45 reacts with iron in wash water into rust-yellow stains
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Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- 3 β dewy emollient lipid
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Emollient, softens and smooths skin
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Film former, locks the formula onto skin for water resistance
- β 7 film former
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- β 14 feeds malassezia
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 2 β nourishing humectant
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Mattifying powder, absorbs oil and blurs the finish
- light β 1.5 sebum-absorbing powder
- matte β 1 sebum-absorbing powder
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Botanical extract
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Botanical extract
-
Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin
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Botanical extract
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18 Terpineol
Supporting ingredient
-
19 Thymol
Supporting ingredient
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Plant oil, an emollient
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Soothing, skin-conditioning active
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Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
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Fatty alcohol, an emollient and thickener, not the drying kind
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- β 9 feeds malassezia
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- β 9 feeds malassezia
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Fatty alcohol, an emollient and thickener, not the drying kind
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28 Xanthan Gum
Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
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Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
-
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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Chelator, binds stray metal ions to keep the formula stable
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33 Citric Acid
pH adjuster
-
pH adjuster
-
pH adjuster
-
36 Glycerin
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 1 β nourishing the anchor humectant
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37 Bisabolol
Soothing, skin-conditioning active
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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39 Propanediol
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
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Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
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Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
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43 Linalool
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
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44 Limonene
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
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45 Geraniol
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
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46 Citronellol
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
Is Dermalogica Clearing Defense SPF 30 good for acne-prone skin?
It is generally suitable. The balanced finish and low pore-clogging rating make it friendly for breakout-prone skin, and it sits lightweight.
Is the Dermalogica Clearing Defense SPF 30 mineral or chemical?
It is a chemical sunscreen. It uses older-style filters Homosalate, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Salicylate and Avobenzone.
Does it leave a white cast?
No, it leaves little to no white cast. Its ghost-mode rating is low, so it suits everyday face wear.