Open Formula Spf 55 Moisturizer
49/100 overall score
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About this sunscreen
Open Formula SPF 55 Moisturizer pairs the older-generation chemical filter Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate with Zinc Oxide. It has a dewy finish, low white cast, and a lightweight feel, and is generally low risk for clogging pores, with makeup sitting okay over it. Despite the SPF 55 label, the formula is rated only weak in real-world protection, and the score of 49.0/100 reflects that. It works best as a hydrating daytime layer rather than dependable sun cover.
Ingredient & SPF scores
☀️
UV protection
Weak
16
- +10.8 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate at #20, UV filter
- +12.3 Zinc Oxide at #21, UV filter (UVA1 +5.4)
- ×0.6 Almost no UVA1, poor aging protection
- +2 Label claims (SPF 55)
☢️
Health safety
High
64
- +100 Starting score
- −36 Octinoxate at #20 (regulatory/evidence concern)
🤧
Allergens
Low
82
- +100 Starting score
- −18 Sensitizing preservatives (Methylisothiazolinone)
👻
White cast
Low
94
- +100 Starting score
- −6 Zinc Oxide, 4.8% declared
- +0.4 Coated minerals (Triethoxycaprylylsilane)
🔥
Eye sting
Low
98
- +100 Starting score
- −2 Octinoxate at #20, migrates into eyes with sweat
🪨
Heavy feel
Low
86
- +100 Starting score
- −8 Zinc Oxide, 4.8% declared
- −6 Hydrogenated Microcrystalline Wax at #9, wax film
- −5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil at #12, butter/occlusive fat
- +4.8 Volatile silicone at #7, flashes off
🔴
Comedogenic
Low
83
- +100 Starting score
- −17 Isopropyl Palmitate at #6, heavy comedogenic ester
🍄
Fungal acne
High
22
- +100 Starting score
- −28 2 oils/butters that feed Malassezia (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil)
- −50 3 long-chain (C12+) esters that feed Malassezia (Isopropyl Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate)
👕
Fabric stains
Low
98
- +100 Starting score
- −2 Zinc Oxide at #21, white marks, worst on dark fabric (washable)
💧
Moisture
Balanced
LightNourishing
- ← 1.5 1 sebum-absorbing powders (Silica)
- ← 5 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
- → 2 1 emollient lipids (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil)
✨
Finish
Dewy
MatteDewy
- ← 1 1 sebum-absorbing powders (Silica)
- ← 4 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
- → 3 1 emollient lipids (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil)
- → 10 2 slippy emollient esters (Ethylhexyl Stearate, Isopropyl Palmitate)
💄
Makeup base
Okay
PillsPrimer
- → 5 Primer-style base, volatile silicones and dimethicone slip
- ← 6 Occlusives/waxes float the foundation
🌊
Water resistance
Not resistant
Non-water-resistantWater-resistant
- +4 1 water-locking waxes
Skincare extras
Beneficial actives this formula contains. Informational only, not part of the rating: their effect depends on a concentration the label does not disclose.
- ✨ Aloe vera
Full ingredient list (21)
What each ingredient does and how it moves each rating: green helps, red hurts, ↑ / ↓ give the direction, and ← / → shift a slider toward its ends (finish, moisture, makeup base). Auto-derived from our scoring rules and the ingredient's position.
-
1 Water
Solvent base, the water phase
-
Supporting ingredient
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- 6 → dewy slippy emollient ester
-
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- ↑ 24 feeds malassezia
-
Soothing, skin-conditioning active
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- ↑ 17 heavy comedogenic ester
- 4 → dewy slippy emollient ester
- ↑ 24 feeds malassezia
-
Volatile silicone, flashes off for a light finish
- light ← 5 volatile carrier, flashes off
- matte ← 4 volatile carrier, flashes off
-
Botanical extract
- 2 → nourishing emollient lipid
- 3 → dewy emollient lipid
- ↑ 14 feeds malassezia
-
Occlusive, seals moisture into the skin
- ↑ 6 wax film
- ↑ 4 wax water lock
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
Plant oil, an emollient
- ↑ 5 butter/occlusive fat
- ↑ 14 feeds malassezia
-
Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
-
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
-
15 Silica
Mattifying powder, absorbs oil and blurs the finish
- light ← 1.5 sebum-absorbing powder
- matte ← 1 sebum-absorbing powder
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
Supporting ingredient
-
Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
-
Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
-
Legacy UV filter (Octinoxate), low in the list, likely a minor contributor
- ↑ 10.8 UV protection
- ↑ 2 migrates into eyes with sweat
-
21 Zinc Oxide
Mineral UV filter (Zinc Oxide), low in the list, likely a minor contributor
- ↑ 12.3 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
- ↑ 6 4.8% declared
- ↑ 8 4.8% declared
- ↑ 2 white marks, worst on dark fabric (washable)
Is Open Formula SPF 55 Moisturizer as protective as the label suggests?
Despite the SPF 55 label, real-world protection is rated only weak, and it scores 49.0/100. It is better treated as a hydrating daytime layer than as dependable sun cover.
Is the Open Formula Spf 55 Moisturizer mineral or chemical?
It is a hybrid. It pairs the chemical filter Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate with the mineral filter Zinc Oxide.
Does it leave a white cast?
White cast is generally low. It has a dewy finish and a lightweight feel, so it stays fairly discreet on skin.