Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF 50 Moisturizer
49/100 overall score
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Ingredient & SPF scores
βοΈ
UV protection
Weak
30
- +18 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate at #2, UV filter
- +24 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane at #8, UV filter (UVA1 +12.8)
- Γ0.9 Limited long-UVA1 coverage
- Γ0.75 Avobenzone + octinoxate degrade each other in sunlight
- +2 Label claims (SPF 50)
β’οΈ
Health safety
High
61
- +100 Starting score
- β36 Octinoxate at #2 (regulatory/evidence concern)
- β3.5 Avobenzone at #8, stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
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Allergens
Low
77
- +100 Starting score
- β15 7 declared fragrance allergens
- β8 Essential oils (Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil, Citrus Limonium Peel Oil, β¦)
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White cast
Low
98
- +100 Starting score
- β2 Titanium Dioxide as pigment (CI 77891) at #57
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Eye sting
Low
68
- +100 Starting score
- β8 Avobenzone at #8, migrates into eyes with sweat
- β16 Octinoxate at #2, migrates into eyes with sweat
- β8 7 declared fragrance allergens
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Fungal acne
Medium
47
- +100 Starting score
- β24 2 polysorbate/sorbitan emulsifiers that feed Malassezia (Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 80)
- β18 2 oils/butters that feed Malassezia (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Lecithin)
- β9 1 long-chain (C12+) esters that feed Malassezia (Ceteareth-20)
- β2 1 ubiquitous fatty ingredients (Stearic Acid), weak Malassezia signal
- +0 Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract at #18, ferment, disputed Malassezia trigger (not penalized)
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Fabric stains
Low
62
- +100 Starting score
- β38 Avobenzone at #8, reacts with iron in wash water into rust-yellow stains
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Moisture
Hydrating
LightNourishing
- β 5 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
- β 10 Glycerin at #7, the anchor humectant
- β 2 Sodium Hyaluronate at #29, hyaluronic family
- β 1 1 strong humectants (Urea)
- β 2 Humectant polyols
- β 2 2 emollient lipids (Squalane, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil)
β¨
Finish
Balanced
MatteDewy
- β 4 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
- β 8 3 emollient lipids (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Squalane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate)
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Makeup base
Okay
PillsPrimer
- β 6 Primer-style base, volatile silicones and dimethicone slip
- β 2 Dry-touch esters, smooth fast-absorbing base
- β 2 Gel polymers prone to pilling under friction (Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, β¦)
- β 3 Humectant syrup tackiness
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Water resistance
Not resistant
Non-water-resistantWater-resistant
Nothing flagged in the ingredient list.
How we rate water resistance βFull ingredient list (57)
What each ingredient does and how it moves each rating: green helps, red hurts, β / β give the direction, and β / β shift a slider toward its ends (finish, moisture, makeup base). Auto-derived from our scoring rules and the ingredient's position.
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1 Water
Solvent base, the water phase
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Legacy UV filter (Octinoxate), high in the list, a primary filter
- β 18 UV protection
- β 16 migrates into eyes with sweat
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 2 β nourishing humectant polyol
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Supporting ingredient
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- 6 β dewy emollient lipid
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Volatile silicone, flashes off for a light finish
- light β 5 volatile carrier, flashes off
- matte β 4 volatile carrier, flashes off
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7 Glycerin
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 10 β nourishing the anchor humectant
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Legacy UV filter (Avobenzone), low in the list, likely a minor contributor
- β 24 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
- β 3.5 stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
- β 8 migrates into eyes with sweat
- β 38 reacts with iron in wash water into rust-yellow stains
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Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
Supporting ingredient
-
Protein, peptide or amino acid, conditions and hydrates skin
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Botanical extract
-
Botanical extract
-
Botanical extract
-
Botanical extract
- 1 β nourishing emollient lipid
- 1 β dewy emollient lipid
- β 9 feeds malassezia
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Botanical extract
-
Plant oil, an emollient
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Botanical extract
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Supporting ingredient
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Botanical extract
-
Botanical extract
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Soothing, skin-conditioning active
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Botanical extract
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24 Lecithin
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- β 9 feeds malassezia
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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pH adjuster
-
Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin
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28 Squalane
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- 1 β nourishing emollient lipid
- 1 β dewy emollient lipid
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 2 β nourishing hyaluronic family
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Emollient, softens and smooths skin
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Protein, peptide or amino acid, conditions and hydrates skin
-
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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Emollient, softens and smooths skin
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Fatty alcohol, an emollient and thickener, not the drying kind
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35 Stearic Acid
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- β 2 minor malassezia feeder
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36 Ceteareth-20
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- β 9 feeds malassezia
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Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
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Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
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Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- β 12 feeds malassezia
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42 Urea
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 1 β nourishing humectant
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- β 12 feeds malassezia
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pH adjuster
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Chelator, binds stray metal ions to keep the formula stable
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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49 Linalool
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
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50 Eugenol
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
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51 Limonene
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
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52 Geraniol
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
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53 Citronellol
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
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Fragrance component, a declared allergen
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55 Citral
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
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Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
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Colorant or pigment