Sesderma Azelac Ru Luminous Fluid Cream SPF 50
72/100 overall score
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About this sunscreen
Sesderma Azelac RU Luminous Fluid Cream SPF 50 is a hybrid sunscreen combining octinoxate, Uvinul T 150, ethylhexyl salicylate, Tinosorb S, avobenzone, and titanium dioxide. It sets to a matte, lightweight finish with low white cast and works well under makeup, with low sting and low pore-clogging risk. With a score of 72.4 and good protection, it is a solid daily fluid for those who want a matte result.
Ingredient & SPF scores
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UV protection
Good
65
- +18 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate at #2, UV filter
- +20.9 Ethylhexyl Triazone at #5, UV filter
- +7.6 Ethylhexyl Salicylate at #6, UV filter
- +38.4 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine at #8, UV filter (UVA1 +12.8)
- +24 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane at #9, UV filter (UVA1 +12.8)
- +19.8 Titanium Dioxide at #15, UV filter (UVA1 +3)
- β38.5 UVB coverage saturated
- β6.6 UVA2 coverage saturated
- Γ0.75 Avobenzone + octinoxate degrade each other in sunlight
- +2 Label claims (SPF 50)
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Health safety
High
61
- +100 Starting score
- β36 Octinoxate at #2 (regulatory/evidence concern)
- β3.5 Avobenzone at #9, stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
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Allergens
Low
70
- +100 Starting score
- β18 Fragrance
- β12 Opaque "Fragrance", hidden allergens that can't be checked from the label
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White cast
Low
97
- +100 Starting score
- β3 Titanium Dioxide at #15 (nano)
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Eye sting
Low
61
- +100 Starting score
- β8 Avobenzone at #9, migrates into eyes with sweat
- β16 Octinoxate at #2, migrates into eyes with sweat
- β6 Octisalate at #6, migrates into eyes with sweat
- β1 Volatile alcohol at #26
- β8 Fragrance
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Heavy feel
Low
99
- +100 Starting score
- β2 Titanium Dioxide at #15
- +0.5 Volatile silicone at #7, flashes off
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Fungal acne
Medium
61
- +100 Starting score
- β12 1 polysorbate/sorbitan emulsifiers that feed Malassezia (Polysorbate 20)
- β9 1 oils/butters that feed Malassezia (Lecithin)
- β18 2 long-chain (C12+) esters that feed Malassezia (Glyceryl Oleate, Glyceryl Stearate)
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Fabric stains
Medium
60
- +100 Starting score
- β38 Avobenzone at #9, reacts with iron in wash water into rust-yellow stains
- β2 Titanium Dioxide at #15, white marks, worst on dark fabric (washable)
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Moisture
Light
LightNourishing
- β 2 Volatile alcohol at #26
- β 4.5 2 sebum-absorbing powders (Silica, Polymethyl Methacrylate)
- β 5 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
- β 3 Humectant polyols
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Finish
Matte
MatteDewy
- β 4 2 sebum-absorbing powders (Polymethyl Methacrylate, Silica)
- β 4 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
- β 0.5 Volatile alcohol at #26
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Makeup base
Good
PillsPrimer
- β 5 Primer-style base, volatile silicones and dimethicone slip
- β 3 1 soft-focus powders in moderation
- β 1 Gel polymers prone to pilling under friction (Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer)
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Water resistance
Not resistant
Non-water-resistantWater-resistant
Nothing flagged in the ingredient list.
How we rate water resistance βFull ingredient list (52)
What each ingredient does and how it moves each rating: green helps, red hurts, β / β give the direction, and β / β shift a slider toward its ends (finish, moisture, makeup base). Auto-derived from our scoring rules and the ingredient's position.
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1 Water
Solvent base, the water phase
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Legacy UV filter (Octinoxate), high in the list, a primary filter
- β 18 UV protection
- β 16 migrates into eyes with sweat
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 2 β nourishing humectant polyol
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 1 β nourishing humectant polyol
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Modern UV filter, broad-spectrum and photostable (Uvinul T 150)
- β 20.9 UV protection
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Legacy UV filter (Octisalate)
- β 7.6 UV protection
- β 6 migrates into eyes with sweat
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Volatile silicone, flashes off for a light finish
- light β 5 volatile carrier, flashes off
- matte β 4 volatile carrier, flashes off
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Modern UV filter, broad-spectrum and photostable (Tinosorb S), low in the list, likely a minor contributor
- β 38.4 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
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Legacy UV filter (Avobenzone), low in the list, likely a minor contributor
- β 24 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
- β 3.5 stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
- β 8 migrates into eyes with sweat
- β 38 reacts with iron in wash water into rust-yellow stains
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Mattifying powder, absorbs oil and blurs the finish
- light β 3 sebum-absorbing powder
- matte β 3 sebum-absorbing powder
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
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Botanical extract
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13 Mica
Colorant or pigment
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Fatty alcohol, an emollient and thickener, not the drying kind
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Mineral UV filter (Titanium Dioxide), low in the list, likely a minor contributor
- β 19.8 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
- β 2 white marks, worst on dark fabric (washable)
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Mineral UV filter (Titanium Dioxide), low in the list, likely a minor contributor
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Protein, peptide or amino acid, conditions and hydrates skin
-
Supporting ingredient
-
Supporting ingredient
-
20 Azelaic Acid
Supporting ingredient
-
Supporting ingredient
-
Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin
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Protein, peptide or amino acid, conditions and hydrates skin
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24 Lecithin
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- β 9 feeds malassezia
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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26 Alcohol
Volatile alcohol, a drying solvent that can sting eyes
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27 Dimethicone
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
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Emollient, softens and smooths skin
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Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
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30 Silica
Mattifying powder, absorbs oil and blurs the finish
- light β 1.5 sebum-absorbing powder
- matte β 1 sebum-absorbing powder
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- β 12 feeds malassezia
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Chelator, binds stray metal ions to keep the formula stable
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33 Carbomer
Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
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pH adjuster
-
Supporting ingredient
-
Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
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Emollient, softens and smooths skin
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Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
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39 Tocopherol
Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- β 9 feeds malassezia
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
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42 BHT
Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin
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Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin
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Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- β 9 feeds malassezia
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
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47 Citric Acid
pH adjuster
-
pH adjuster
-
pH adjuster
-
Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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52 Fragrance
Fragrance
Does this Sesderma fluid leave a white cast?
No, white cast is rated low and the finish is matte. It is a hybrid with filters like Tinosorb S, Uvinul T 150, and titanium dioxide.
Is the Sesderma Azelac Ru Luminous Fluid Cream SPF 50 good for oily or acne-prone skin?
Yes, it sets matte, stays lightweight, and has low pore-clogging risk, which generally suits oily and acne-prone skin.
Is this sunscreen any good?
It scores 72.4 out of 100 with good protection. It is a solid daily fluid, especially for those who want a matte result.