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Helia-D Officina Youth Concept Facial Hydrating Cream SPF 45

Helia-D SPF 45
Helia-D Officina Youth Concept Facial Hydrating Cream SPF 45

84/100 overall score

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Ingredient & SPF scores

☀️

UV protection

Excellent 100
  • +18 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate at #3, UV filter
  • +45.6 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine at #4, UV filter (UVA1 +15.2)
  • +38.4 Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol at #8, UV filter (UVA1 +14.4)
  • +28.8 Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate at #9, UV filter (UVA1 +17.6)
  • +17.6 Ethylhexyl Triazone at #12, UV filter
  • −33.5 UVB coverage saturated
  • −12.7 UVA2 coverage saturated
  • −2.2 UVA1 coverage saturated
  • +1 Label claims (SPF 45)
How we rate uv protection →
☢️

Health safety

High 64
  • +100 Starting score
  • −36 Octinoxate at #3 (regulatory/evidence concern)
How we rate health safety →
🤧

Allergens

Low 68
  • +100 Starting score
  • −18 Fragrance
  • −14 6 declared fragrance allergens
How we rate allergens →
👻

White cast

Low 94
  • +100 Starting score
  • −6 Tinosorb M at #8
How we rate white cast →
🔥

Eye sting

Low 68
  • +100 Starting score
  • −16 Octinoxate at #3, migrates into eyes with sweat
  • −8 Fragrance
  • −8 6 declared fragrance allergens
How we rate eye sting →
🪨

Heavy feel

Low 100
  • +100 Starting score
How we rate heavy feel →
🔴

Comedogenic

Low 100
  • +100 Starting score
How we rate comedogenic →
🍄

Fungal acne

Medium 58
  • +100 Starting score
  • −18 1 polysorbate/sorbitan emulsifiers that feed Malassezia (Sorbitan Olivate)
  • −24 1 long-chain (C12+) esters that feed Malassezia (Cetearyl Olivate)
How we rate fungal acne →
👕

Fabric stains

Low 85
  • +100 Starting score
  • −15 Uvinul A Plus (DHHB) at #9, oil-soluble UVA filter, fabric stains
How we rate fabric stains →
💧

Moisture

Nourishing
LightNourishing
  • ← 2 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
  • → 16 Glycerin at #2, the anchor humectant
  • → 2 Sodium Hyaluronate at #22, hyaluronic family
  • → 8 5 strong humectants (Sodium PCA, Pca, Urea, …)
  • → 1 Light emollient/solvent (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
How we rate moisture →
✨

Finish

Balanced
MatteDewy
  • ← 2 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
How we rate finish →
💄

Makeup base

Okay
PillsPrimer
  • ← 4 Gel polymers prone to pilling under friction (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer)
  • ← 7 Humectant syrup tackiness
How we rate makeup base →
🌊

Water resistance

Not resistant
Non-water-resistantWater-resistant

Nothing flagged in the ingredient list.

How we rate water resistance →

Full ingredient list (37)

What each ingredient does and how it moves each rating: green helps, red hurts, ↑ / ↓ give the direction, and ← / → shift a slider toward its ends (finish, moisture, makeup base). Auto-derived from our scoring rules and the ingredient's position.

  1. 1 Water

    Solvent base, the water phase

  2. 2 Glycerin

    Humectant, pulls water into the skin

    • 16 → nourishing the anchor humectant
  3. 3 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

    Legacy UV filter (Octinoxate), high in the list, a primary filter

    • ↑ 18 UV protection
    • ↑ 16 migrates into eyes with sweat
  4. 4 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

    Modern UV filter, broad-spectrum and photostable (Tinosorb S)

    • ↑ 45.6 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
  5. 5 Urea

    Humectant, pulls water into the skin

    • 4 → nourishing humectant
  6. 6 Cetearyl Olivate

    Emollient, softens and smooths skin

    • ↑ 24 feeds malassezia
  7. 7 Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

    Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream

  8. 8 Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol

    Modern UV filter, broad-spectrum and photostable (Tinosorb M), low in the list, likely a minor contributor

    • ↑ 38.4 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
  9. 9 Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

    Modern UV filter, broad-spectrum and photostable (Uvinul A Plus), low in the list, likely a minor contributor

    • ↑ 28.8 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
    • ↑ 15 oil-soluble UVA filter, fabric stains
  10. 10 Sorbitan Olivate

    Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended

    • ↑ 18 feeds malassezia
  11. 11 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

    Emollient, softens and smooths skin

    • 1 → nourishing light emollient
  12. 12 Ethylhexyl Triazone

    Modern UV filter, broad-spectrum and photostable (Uvinul T 150), low in the list, likely a minor contributor

    • ↑ 17.6 UV protection
  13. 13 Phenoxyethanol

    Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling

  14. 14 Cyclopentasiloxane

    Volatile silicone, flashes off for a light finish

    • light ← 1 volatile carrier, flashes off
    • matte ← 1 volatile carrier, flashes off
  15. 15 Decyl Glucoside

    Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended

  16. 16 Hydroxyacetophenone

    Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin

  17. 17 Pentylene Glycol

    Humectant, pulls water into the skin

  18. 18 Allantoin

    Soothing, skin-conditioning active

  19. 19 Cyclohexasiloxane

    Volatile silicone, flashes off for a light finish

    • light ← 1 volatile carrier, flashes off
    • matte ← 1 volatile carrier, flashes off
  20. 20 Diglycerin

    Humectant, pulls water into the skin

    • 1 → nourishing humectant
  21. 21 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

    Protein, peptide or amino acid, conditions and hydrates skin

  22. 22 Sodium Hyaluronate

    Humectant, pulls water into the skin

    • 2 → nourishing hyaluronic family
  23. 23 Sodium PCA

    Humectant, pulls water into the skin

    • 1 → nourishing humectant
  24. 24 Ethylhexyl-Glycerin

    Humectant, pulls water into the skin

  25. 25 Lactic Acid

    pH adjuster

  26. 26 Lysine

    Protein, peptide or amino acid, conditions and hydrates skin

  27. 27 Pca

    Humectant, pulls water into the skin

    • 1 → nourishing humectant
  28. 28 Sorbitol

    Humectant, pulls water into the skin

    • 1 → nourishing humectant
  29. 29 Propylene Glycol

    Humectant, pulls water into the skin

  30. 30 Xanthan Gum

    Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream

  31. 31 Fragrance

    Fragrance

  32. 32 Linalool

    Fragrance component, a declared allergen

  33. 33 Citronellol

    Fragrance component, a declared allergen

  34. 34 Geraniol

    Fragrance component, a declared allergen

  35. 35 Hexyl Cinnamal

    Fragrance component, a declared allergen

  36. 36 Limonene

    Fragrance component, a declared allergen

  37. 37 Benzyl Salicylate

    Fragrance component, a declared allergen

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