Helia-D Officina Youth Concept Rich Anti-Wrinkle Cream SPF 20
69/100 overall score
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About this sunscreen
Helia-D Officina Youth Concept Rich Anti-Wrinkle Cream is an SPF 20 anti-aging cream with a small hybrid filter pairing of octinoxate and Uvinul A Plus. It wears with a balanced finish, low white cast, and a lightweight feel, does not sting, and is low on the pore-clogging scale, though its makeup-base role is rated only okay. SPF 20 is generally a light, everyday level rather than full sun defense, which fits its moderate protection rating. It scores 69.1/100.
Ingredient & SPF scores
☀️
UV protection
Moderate
52
- +18 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate at #2, UV filter
- +34.2 Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate at #4, UV filter (UVA1 +20.9)
☢️
Health safety
High
64
- +100 Starting score
- −36 Octinoxate at #2 (regulatory/evidence concern)
🤧
Allergens
Low
68
- +100 Starting score
- −18 Fragrance
- −14 6 declared fragrance allergens
🔥
Eye sting
Low
68
- +100 Starting score
- −16 Octinoxate at #2, migrates into eyes with sweat
- −8 Fragrance
- −8 6 declared fragrance allergens
🪨
Heavy feel
Low
93
- +100 Starting score
- −2 Butyrospermum Parkii Fruit at #17, butter/occlusive fat
- −5 Cetearyl Alcohol at #5, rich gel-network thickener
🔴
Comedogenic
Low
99
- +100 Starting score
- −1 Persea Gratissima Oil at #13, moderate comedogenic signal
🍄
Fungal acne
Medium
50
- +100 Starting score
- −12 1 polysorbate/sorbitan emulsifiers that feed Malassezia (Polysorbate 20)
- −36 4 oils/butters that feed Malassezia (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Fruit)
- −2 1 ubiquitous fatty ingredients (Cetearyl Glucoside), weak Malassezia signal
- +0 Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil at #15, jojoba wax ester, fungal-acne exception (not penalized)
👕
Fabric stains
Low
85
- +100 Starting score
- −15 Uvinul A Plus (DHHB) at #4, oil-soluble UVA filter, fabric stains
💧
Moisture
Nourishing
LightNourishing
- → 16 Glycerin at #3, the anchor humectant
- → 2 Sodium Hyaluronate at #19, hyaluronic family
- → 5 5 emollient lipids (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, …)
- → 1 Light emollient/solvent (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
- → 1 1 fatty-alcohol emollients (Cetearyl Alcohol)
✨
Finish
Balanced
MatteDewy
- ← 1 1 dry-touch emollients reduce greasy shine (Coco-Caprylate/Caprate)
- → 5 5 emollient lipids (Persea Gratissima Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, …)
💄
Makeup base
Okay
PillsPrimer
- → 1 Dry-touch esters, smooth fast-absorbing base
- ← 4.5 Gel polymers prone to pilling under friction (Carbomer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer)
- ← 7 Humectant syrup tackiness
🌊
Water resistance
Not resistant
Non-water-resistantWater-resistant
Nothing flagged in the ingredient list.
How we rate water resistance →Skincare extras
Beneficial actives this formula contains. Informational only, not part of the rating: their effect depends on a concentration the label does not disclose.
- ✨ Niacinamide
Full ingredient list (40)
What each ingredient does and how it moves each rating: green helps, red hurts, ↑ / ↓ give the direction, and ← / → shift a slider toward its ends (finish, moisture, makeup base). Auto-derived from our scoring rules and the ingredient's position.
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1 Water
Solvent base, the water phase
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Legacy UV filter (Octinoxate), high in the list, a primary filter
- ↑ 18 UV protection
- ↑ 16 migrates into eyes with sweat
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3 Glycerin
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 16 → nourishing the anchor humectant
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Modern UV filter, broad-spectrum and photostable (Uvinul A Plus)
- ↑ 34.2 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
- ↑ 15 oil-soluble UVA filter, fabric stains
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Fatty alcohol, an emollient and thickener, not the drying kind
- ↑ 5 rich gel-network thickener
- 1 → nourishing fatty-alcohol emollient
-
Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
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Soothing, skin-conditioning active
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- 1 → nourishing light emollient
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Fatty alcohol, an emollient and thickener, not the drying kind
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Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- matte ← 1 dry-touch emollient, anti-shine
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Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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Plant oil, an emollient
- ↑ 1 moderate comedogenic signal
- 1 → nourishing emollient lipid
- 1 → dewy emollient lipid
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
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Plant oil, an emollient
- 1 → nourishing emollient lipid
- 1 → dewy emollient lipid
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
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Botanical extract
- 1 → nourishing emollient lipid
- 1 → dewy emollient lipid
-
Botanical extract
-
Botanical extract
- ↑ 2 butter/occlusive fat
- 1 → nourishing emollient lipid
- 1 → dewy emollient lipid
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 2 → nourishing hyaluronic family
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- ↑ 2 minor malassezia feeder
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Protein, peptide or amino acid, conditions and hydrates skin
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Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
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Chelator, binds stray metal ions to keep the formula stable
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Humectant, pulls water into the skin
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25 Lactic Acid
pH adjuster
-
Botanical extract
-
27 Carbomer
Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
-
Supporting ingredient
-
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- ↑ 12 feeds malassezia
-
Botanical extract
- 1 → nourishing emollient lipid
- 1 → dewy emollient lipid
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
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Botanical extract
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32 Fragrance
Fragrance
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33 Linalool
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
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34 Citronellol
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
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35 Geraniol
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
-
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
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37 Limonene
Fragrance component, a declared allergen
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Fragrance component, a declared allergen
-
Protein, peptide or amino acid, conditions and hydrates skin
-
Protein, peptide or amino acid, conditions and hydrates skin
Is the Helia-D Officina Youth Concept Rich Anti-Wrinkle Cream SPF 20 mineral or chemical?
It is hybrid, with a small filter pairing of octinoxate and Uvinul A Plus. There is no zinc or titanium.
Does the Helia-D Officina Youth Concept Rich Anti-Wrinkle Cream SPF 20 leave a white cast or sting?
White cast is low and it does not sting, with a balanced, lightweight finish. It is low on the pore-clogging scale.
Is SPF 20 enough and is it good?
SPF 20 is generally a light, everyday level rather than full sun defense, and its protection is rated moderate. The cream scores 69.1/100.