Koh Gen Do The Skinwake Hakko Essence Primer Smooth Color Control SPF 42 Pa++++
49/100 overall score
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About this sunscreen
Koh Gen Do The Skinwake Hakko Essence Primer SPF 42 PA++++ is a mineral primer using zinc oxide as its single UV filter. It has a balanced finish, wears lightweight, leaves low white cast and is generally unlikely to sting. The low breakout trigger suits most skin, and the makeup-base fit is okay since it doubles as a primer. With a score of 49.0 and protection rated weak, it is better seen as a light primer with some sun support than a standalone sunscreen.
Ingredient & SPF scores
☀️
UV protection
Weak
8
- +12.3 Zinc Oxide at #80, UV filter (UVA1 +5.4)
- ×0.6 Almost no UVA1, poor aging protection
- +0 UVA claimed on the label but no real UVA1 filters in the list
- +1 Label claims (SPF 42)
🤧
Allergens
Low
68
- +100 Starting score
- −18 Fragrance
- −12 Opaque "Fragrance", hidden allergens that can't be checked from the label
- −2 Other sensitizers (lanolin)
👻
White cast
Low
97
- +100 Starting score
- −5 Zinc Oxide at #80
- −2 Titanium Dioxide as pigment (CI 77891) at #74
- +3.5 Iron-oxide undertone, partial masking
- +0.5 Coated minerals (Aluminum Hydroxide, Hydrogen Dimethicone, Methicone)
🔥
Eye sting
Low
98
- +100 Starting score
- −8 Fragrance
- +6 Mineral filter system, low-sting filters
🪨
Heavy feel
Low
93
- +100 Starting score
- −3 Zinc Oxide at #80
- −2 Butyrospermum Parkii Fruit at #16, butter/occlusive fat
- −2 Lanolin at #30, butter/occlusive fat
🔴
Comedogenic
Low
96
- +100 Starting score
- −2 Ethylhexyl Palmitate at #19, heavy comedogenic ester
- −2 Lanolin at #30, comedogenic oil/butter
🍄
Fungal acne
Medium
44
- +100 Starting score
- −45 5 oils/butters that feed Malassezia (Butyrospermum Parkii Fruit, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Macadamia Oil)
- −9 1 long-chain (C12+) esters that feed Malassezia (Ethylhexyl Palmitate)
- −2 1 ubiquitous fatty ingredients (Stearic Acid), weak Malassezia signal
- +0 Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil at #33, jojoba wax ester, fungal-acne exception (not penalized)
👕
Fabric stains
Medium
58
- +100 Starting score
- −40 Iron-oxide pigments at #6, makeup-like collar marks (washable)
- −2 Zinc Oxide at #80, white marks, worst on dark fabric (washable)
💧
Moisture
Hydrating
LightNourishing
- ← 6 3 sebum-absorbing powders (Silica, Kaolin, Talc)
- ← 1 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
- → 1 Glycerin at #18, the anchor humectant
- → 10 Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate at #3, hyaluronic family
- → 1 1 strong humectants (Ectoin)
- → 1 Humectant polyols
- → 5 5 emollient lipids (Squalane, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Fruit, …)
- → 6 Ceramide barrier lipids
✨
Finish
Balanced
MatteDewy
- ← 5 3 sebum-absorbing powders (Silica, Kaolin, Talc)
- ← 1 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
- → 5 5 emollient lipids (Butyrospermum Parkii Fruit, Squalane, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, …)
- → 1 1 slippy emollient esters (Ethylhexyl Palmitate)
- → 1 Occlusives seal moisture in (Lanolin)
💄
Makeup base
Okay
PillsPrimer
- → 3 1 soft-focus powders in moderation
- ← 1 Occlusives/waxes float the foundation
🌊
Water resistance
Not resistant
Non-water-resistantWater-resistant
- +3 1 film-forming polymers that lock the formula on for water resistance
- +2 1 water-locking waxes
Full ingredient list (82)
What each ingredient does and how it moves each rating: green helps, red hurts, ↑ / ↓ give the direction, and ← / → shift a slider toward its ends (finish, moisture, makeup base). Auto-derived from our scoring rules and the ingredient's position.
-
1 Water
Solvent base, the water phase
-
Supporting ingredient
-
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 10 → nourishing hyaluronic family
-
Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
-
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 1 → nourishing humectant polyol
-
Colorant or pigment
- ↑ 40 makeup-like collar marks (washable)
-
Supporting ingredient
-
Supporting ingredient
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
-
11 Silica
Mattifying powder, absorbs oil and blurs the finish
- light ← 3 sebum-absorbing powder
- matte ← 3 sebum-absorbing powder
-
pH adjuster
-
Botanical extract
-
Soothing, skin-conditioning active
-
15 Ectoin
Soothing, skin-conditioning active
- 1 → nourishing humectant
-
Botanical extract
- ↑ 2 butter/occlusive fat
- 1 → nourishing emollient lipid
- 1 → dewy emollient lipid
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
-
17 Arginine
pH adjuster
-
18 Glycerin
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 1 → nourishing the anchor humectant
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- ↑ 2 heavy comedogenic ester
- 1 → dewy slippy emollient ester
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
-
Volatile silicone, flashes off for a light finish
- light ← 1 volatile carrier, flashes off
- matte ← 1 volatile carrier, flashes off
-
Botanical extract
-
22 Propanediol
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
-
Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
- ↑ 3 film former
-
Film former, locks the formula onto skin for water resistance
-
25 Squalane
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- 1 → nourishing emollient lipid
- 1 → dewy emollient lipid
-
Supporting ingredient
-
27 Taurine
Protein, peptide or amino acid, conditions and hydrates skin
-
28 Dimethicone
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
30 Lanolin
Occlusive, seals moisture into the skin
- ↑ 2 butter/occlusive fat
- ↑ 2 comedogenic oil/butter
- 1 → dewy occlusive
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
-
Botanical extract
-
Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
-
Botanical extract
- 1 → nourishing emollient lipid
- 1 → dewy emollient lipid
-
34 Chromium
Supporting ingredient
-
35 Hydroxide K
pH adjuster
-
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
-
Botanical extract
-
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
-
39 Ceramide AG
Soothing, skin-conditioning active
-
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
-
41 Mica
Colorant or pigment
-
42 Kaolin
Mattifying powder, absorbs oil and blurs the finish
- light ← 1.5 sebum-absorbing powder
- matte ← 1 sebum-absorbing powder
-
Botanical extract
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
-
Film former, locks the formula onto skin for water resistance
- ↑ 2 wax water lock
-
47 Ceramide AP
Soothing, skin-conditioning active
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
Supporting ingredient
-
50 Ceramide NG
Soothing, skin-conditioning active
-
Botanical extract
-
52 Methicone
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
Plant oil, an emollient
- 1 → nourishing emollient lipid
- 1 → dewy emollient lipid
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
-
54 Glycerin
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
-
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
-
Supporting ingredient
-
57 Ceramide NP
Soothing, skin-conditioning active
-
Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
-
Botanical extract
-
Colorant or pigment
-
61 Dimethicone
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
62 Talc
Mattifying powder, absorbs oil and blurs the finish
- light ← 1.5 sebum-absorbing powder
- matte ← 1 sebum-absorbing powder
-
63 Phytosterols
Soothing, skin-conditioning active
-
64 Stearic Acid
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- ↑ 2 minor malassezia feeder
-
Colorant or pigment
-
Supporting ingredient
-
Botanical extract
-
Fatty alcohol, an emollient and thickener, not the drying kind
-
69 Xylitol
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
71 Fragrance
Fragrance
-
Plant oil, an emollient
- 1 → nourishing emollient lipid
- 1 → dewy emollient lipid
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
-
pH adjuster
-
Colorant or pigment
-
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
78 Ceramide EOP
Soothing, skin-conditioning active
-
Botanical extract
-
80 Zinc Oxide
Mineral UV filter (Zinc Oxide), low in the list, likely a minor contributor
- ↑ 12.3 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
- ↑ 2 white marks, worst on dark fabric (washable)
-
81 Tocopherol
Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin
-
Fatty alcohol, an emollient and thickener, not the drying kind
Is the Koh Gen Do Skinwake primer mineral or chemical?
It is a mineral product. Zinc oxide is its single UV filter, providing broad-spectrum protection.
Does the Koh Gen Do The Skinwake Hakko Essence Primer Smooth Color Control SPF 42 Pa++++ work under makeup?
Yes, it is built as a primer, so it is designed to go under makeup, and its makeup-base fit is rated okay. The breakout trigger is low and the finish is balanced and lightweight.
Is it a strong sunscreen on its own?
Its protection is rated weak and it scores 49.0 out of 100, so it is better treated as a light primer with some sun support than a standalone sunscreen.