Merle Norman Anti-aging Complex Emulsion Broad Spectrum SPF 30
58/100 overall score
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About this sunscreen
Merle Norman Anti-aging Complex Emulsion Broad Spectrum SPF 30 is a chemical sunscreen using an older filter blend including Homosalate, Benzophenone-3, and Octocrylene. It wears lightweight with a balanced finish and low white cast, though it may sting sensitive eyes a little and is generally unlikely to clog pores. It sits okay under makeup as a day moisturizer. With a score of 58.2/100 and good protection, it is a modest daily anti-aging emulsion rather than a top performer.
Ingredient & SPF scores
☀️
UV protection
Good
64
- +12 Homosalate at #1, UV filter
- +22 Benzophenone-3 at #2, UV filter
- +8 Ethylhexyl Salicylate at #3, UV filter
- +28.5 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane at #4, UV filter (UVA1 +15.2)
- +15.2 Octocrylene at #5, UV filter
- −9.4 UVB coverage saturated
- −6.1 UVA2 coverage saturated
- ×0.9 Limited long-UVA1 coverage
- +1 Label claims (SPF 30)
☢️
Health safety
Low
0
- +100 Starting score
- −70 Oxybenzone at #2 (regulatory/evidence concern)
- −14 Homosalate at #1, stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
- −10.5 Octocrylene at #5, stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
- −3.5 Avobenzone at #4, stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
- +0 2 endocrine-scrutinized filters together
- −7 Retinyl Palmitate at #30, disputed vitamin-A sunlight signal, under review
- +5 Penalties exceed the scale, floored at 0
🤧
Allergens
Low
73
- +100 Starting score
- −18 Sensitizing preservatives (Methylisothiazolinone)
- −9 Photoallergen-tail UV filters (Benzophenone-3, Octocrylene)
🔥
Eye sting
Medium
34
- +100 Starting score
- −16 Avobenzone at #4, migrates into eyes with sweat
- −15 Octocrylene at #5, migrates into eyes with sweat
- −16 Oxybenzone at #2, migrates into eyes with sweat
- −9 Homosalate at #1, migrates into eyes with sweat
- −9 Octisalate at #3, migrates into eyes with sweat
- −1 Volatile alcohol at #13
🔴
Comedogenic
Low
93
- +100 Starting score
- −7 Isostearyl Neopentanoate at #12, heavy comedogenic ester
🍄
Fungal acne
Medium
73
- +100 Starting score
- −9 1 oils/butters that feed Malassezia (Hydrogenated Lecithin)
- −18 2 long-chain (C12+) esters that feed Malassezia (Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate)
👕
Fabric stains
High
10
- +100 Starting score
- −45 Avobenzone at #4, reacts with iron in wash water into rust-yellow stains
- −20 Oxybenzone at #2, yellow stains on white cotton
- −15 Octocrylene at #5, co-stains alongside avobenzone
- −10 Avobenzone + Octocrylene, the classic staining pair
💧
Moisture
Balanced
LightNourishing
- ← 2 Volatile alcohol at #13
- ← 4.5 3 sebum-absorbing powders (Silica, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Nylon-12)
- ← 2 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
- → 10 Glycerin at #7, the anchor humectant
- → 2 1 strong humectants (Glycereth-26)
✨
Finish
Balanced
MatteDewy
- ← 3 3 sebum-absorbing powders (Nylon-12, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Silica)
- ← 2 Volatile carriers flash off, leaving a dry finish
- ← 0.5 Volatile alcohol at #13
💄
Makeup base
Okay
PillsPrimer
- → 2 Primer-style base, volatile silicones and dimethicone slip
- ← 1 Gel polymers prone to pilling under friction (Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer)
- ← 3 Humectant syrup tackiness
🌊
Water resistance
Not resistant
Non-water-resistantWater-resistant
Nothing flagged in the ingredient list.
How we rate water resistance →Full ingredient list (53)
What each ingredient does and how it moves each rating: green helps, red hurts, ↑ / ↓ give the direction, and ← / → shift a slider toward its ends (finish, moisture, makeup base). Auto-derived from our scoring rules and the ingredient's position.
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Legacy UV filter (Homosalate), high in the list, a primary filter
- ↑ 12 UV protection
- ↓ 14 stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
- ↑ 9 migrates into eyes with sweat
-
Legacy UV filter (Oxybenzone), high in the list, a primary filter
- ↑ 22 UV protection
- ↑ 16 migrates into eyes with sweat
- ↑ 20 yellow stains on white cotton
-
Legacy UV filter (Octisalate), high in the list, a primary filter
- ↑ 8 UV protection
- ↑ 9 migrates into eyes with sweat
-
Legacy UV filter (Avobenzone)
- ↑ 28.5 UV protection, incl. long-UVA (UVA1)
- ↓ 3.5 stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
- ↑ 16 migrates into eyes with sweat
- ↑ 45 reacts with iron in wash water into rust-yellow stains
-
Legacy UV filter (Octocrylene)
- ↑ 15.2 UV protection
- ↓ 10.5 stacked (regulatory/evidence concern)
- ↑ 15 migrates into eyes with sweat
- ↑ 15 co-stains alongside avobenzone
-
6 Water
Solvent base, the water phase
-
7 Glycerin
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
- 10 → nourishing the anchor humectant
-
Supporting ingredient
-
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
-
Volatile silicone, flashes off for a light finish
- light ← 2 volatile carrier, flashes off
- matte ← 2 volatile carrier, flashes off
-
11 Glycereth-26
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- 2 → nourishing humectant
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- ↑ 7 heavy comedogenic ester
-
Volatile alcohol, a drying solvent that can sting eyes
-
14 Nylon-12
Mattifying powder, absorbs oil and blurs the finish
- light ← 1.5 sebum-absorbing powder
- matte ← 1 sebum-absorbing powder
-
Protein, peptide or amino acid, conditions and hydrates skin
-
Protein, peptide or amino acid, conditions and hydrates skin
-
Supporting ingredient
-
Protein, peptide or amino acid, conditions and hydrates skin
-
19 Proline
Protein, peptide or amino acid, conditions and hydrates skin
-
Soothing, skin-conditioning active
-
Botanical extract
-
Protein, peptide or amino acid, conditions and hydrates skin
-
Botanical extract
-
Botanical extract
-
Botanical extract
-
Botanical extract
-
27 Bisabolol
Soothing, skin-conditioning active
-
Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin
-
Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
- ↓ 7 disputed vitamin-A sunlight signal, under review
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
-
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
-
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
-
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
-
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
- ↑ 9 feeds malassezia
-
Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
-
Mattifying powder, absorbs oil and blurs the finish
- light ← 1.5 sebum-absorbing powder
- matte ← 1 sebum-absorbing powder
-
Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
-
40 Xanthan Gum
Thickener and texture, structures the gel or cream
-
Emulsifier, keeps oil and water blended
-
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
-
Filter booster, photostabilizes the UV filters or lifts their SPF
-
Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
-
Humectant, pulls water into the skin
-
Emollient, softens and smooths skin
-
Supporting ingredient
-
48 Silica
Mattifying powder, absorbs oil and blurs the finish
- light ← 1.5 sebum-absorbing powder
- matte ← 1 sebum-absorbing powder
-
Chelator, binds stray metal ions to keep the formula stable
-
50 BHT
Antioxidant, protects the formula and skin
-
Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
-
Preservative, keeps the formula from spoiling
-
53 Mica
Colorant or pigment
Does this Merle Norman emulsion leave a white cast?
No, white cast is rated low. It is a chemical emulsion with a balanced finish that blends into skin.
Is the Merle Norman Anti-aging Complex Emulsion Broad Spectrum SPF 30 good for acne-prone skin?
It is rated low for pore-clogging and has a balanced finish, so it is generally acne-friendly. Note it may sting sensitive eyes a little.
Is the Merle Norman Anti-aging Emulsion SPF 30 any good?
It scores 58.2/100 with good protection. The filter blend is older-generation, so it is a modest daily anti-aging option rather than a top performer.